Pin fitting is not an exact science, especially when you are doing it by yourself. But since most of us sew at home, by ourselves, that is how we do it. For this coat, I pinned it to the front of a long sleeved winter top (on my body) that I might wear underneath it. I'm glad I took the time to do this because I was surprised by some of the things I found.
I don't know about you but I can't stand to have coats fit too closely. I like them to be roomy enough to wear a sweater underneath. So I start out my pin fitting thinking that I am going to use a size larger than usual. But alas, I am wrong and find that this pattern is fairly roomy and will be working with my usual size. Even without the front bands, it reaches to my middle front and middle back.
First - the shoulders needed adjustment. I often need to narrow the shoulders of garment patterns, so I add a small dart in the pattern front and back pieces on each side, right and left. By small I mean about a half inch.
I am surprised that although I need to shorten the length of the coat, I don't need to shorten it as much as I thought I would. (Maybe the models in the photos on the pattern are not as tall as I thought.) I shortened it at the lower adjustment mark, about one inch on the front and back pieces. I figure that I will take another inch off the bottom but will wait and see how it goes.
Finally, I shorten the sleeves by a full two inches - typical for me, so I must have short arms.
Then I finished up the cutting, using a black lambswool for the collar and a plain black gabardine for the pockets and the facings. Both of these small pieces came from my stash. I'm saving the scraps of the Whirling Dervish wool to make a handbag or backpack of some sort.
Next installment will be about sewing the coat!